Yohji Yamamoto’s latest menswear
collection ticked the box for several of winter’s key menswear trends in
Paris yesterday. Not that his signature style was missing - those
military-inspired looks with laid-back styling and romantic historical
twists also put in an appearance.
The silhouette was easy and oversized with key items including the military reefer and greatcoat alongside Victoriana-styled DB waistcoats, stock-tied neck shirts and tweed field jackets.
Pant shapes were relaxed and pleated, while roomy cardigans featured tonal colour blocking and zipped-through details. Also on the detail front, there was a sequence of easy SBs and soft serape throws edged with homespun blanket stitch detailing.
Meanwhile, Kim Jones won rave reviews for his Louis Vuitton collection as he mixed European and Japanese influences, all wrapped up in a traveller theme. This was seen very clearly in the accessories that included belts trimmed with the words Paris or Tokyo.
But beneath the headline-grabbing themes, this collection was all about wearable luxury with louche tie-belt coats, functional contrast-trimmed ski jackets, Barbour-type jackets and coats, kimono-wrap cotton shirt jackets, and 2SB jackets with contrast sleeves.
The classic palette shaded from clerical greys through to inky marine blues, via tobacco browns, shades of camel and deep merlot.
Back with those accessories, there were shoppers, weekend bags, and document cases all with a strong sense of structure – there was nothing casual about them, especially when they came in broadtail, crocodile or Vuitton’s Epi leather with contrast colour flaps, edging and handles. Also strong were the military-style berets, giant knit scarves and decorative pins with feather trim.
The silhouette was easy and oversized with key items including the military reefer and greatcoat alongside Victoriana-styled DB waistcoats, stock-tied neck shirts and tweed field jackets.
Pant shapes were relaxed and pleated, while roomy cardigans featured tonal colour blocking and zipped-through details. Also on the detail front, there was a sequence of easy SBs and soft serape throws edged with homespun blanket stitch detailing.
Meanwhile, Kim Jones won rave reviews for his Louis Vuitton collection as he mixed European and Japanese influences, all wrapped up in a traveller theme. This was seen very clearly in the accessories that included belts trimmed with the words Paris or Tokyo.
But beneath the headline-grabbing themes, this collection was all about wearable luxury with louche tie-belt coats, functional contrast-trimmed ski jackets, Barbour-type jackets and coats, kimono-wrap cotton shirt jackets, and 2SB jackets with contrast sleeves.
The classic palette shaded from clerical greys through to inky marine blues, via tobacco browns, shades of camel and deep merlot.
Back with those accessories, there were shoppers, weekend bags, and document cases all with a strong sense of structure – there was nothing casual about them, especially when they came in broadtail, crocodile or Vuitton’s Epi leather with contrast colour flaps, edging and handles. Also strong were the military-style berets, giant knit scarves and decorative pins with feather trim.
